
My mood means Utica itself is uninspiring. A wandering drive to its heart—the 1830s “Village”—brings me to the smallest town yet that still gets a mark for having old buildings and an RV park within its county boundaries (several miles from this quaint locale). The core town is about as wide as it is long (one block), with a couple of antique stores, a Cheatin’ Gourmet food shop (“dips, oils, wine, gifts”), a wine store, a LaSalle County Historical Museum. Unless you’re really into local history, old town Utica is one of those “blink and you miss it” kind of places, deceptively small until you realize that the city’s contemporary boundaries sprawl along a lot of county roads, farmland, an 1800s canal, and I-80.
Utica calls itself the “Illinois Village for All Seasons,” which means its primary draw is the great outdoors. State parks abound, and the area offers golfing, water sports, an indoor amusement park. My spirit needs a walk in the woods, so I head out to Starved Rock State Park, on the Illinois River. The day is misty and rainy.
I like this park. Miles of trails climb through woods and up and over sandstone and rock formations. Numerous “Away” and “Return” tags help me stay on track as trails cross each other. Lots of birds and water and yellow flowers.
The river here is basically a canyon gorge, and it’s the site of one of the many locks and dams that take ships to the Mississippi River. It’s called Starved Rock because of a Native American legend in which some Illiniwek Indians killed an Ottowa Indian chief, and then fled to the top of a bluff during subsequent retaliatory raids. The Ottowa and their allies surrounded the bluff, and the Illiniwek, trapped on top, eventually died of starvation. (War Tip No. 1: Good viewpoints don’t always make good retreat spots.)